Wednesday, April 3, 2013

On the Seventh Day, to Market, to Market

We began the day with a visit to the Blue Mosque which stand across a plaza from Haghia Sofia.
Built in the early 17th century, it was the mosque used for state occasions
because it was the closest to Topkapi Palace.
The entrance to the mosque courtyard is a simple classical design.
The interior is anything but simple. Unlike all the other imperial mosques we have visited,
 this one is a riot of colour and pattern. The blue Izmir tiled walls and gilding
 do not reflect the quiet elegance we were drawn to in other mosques.
That's not to say it wasn't stunningly beautiful with the richest materials .  .  .
. . . used for imaginative sight lines.
The kibla is the direct geographical line from the mosque to Mecca, so the front wall of a mosque is the kibla wall. The mihrab is the niche in the wall marking the kibla, to indicate the correct direction for prayer. On the right is the mimber, the high pulpit used for Friday service sermons. 
Outside the Blue Mosque is the Roman Hippodrome, now marked by three ancient columns.
The Egyptian obelisk dating from c. 1500 B.C. was erected here by Theodosius in 390. 
Theodosius added a base to the obelisk with depictions of his family enjoying the
pleasures of the Hippodrome entertainments.
Afterwards we wandered over to the huge market area and spent the afternoon in the Book Bazaar
where we admired framed illustration pages from Qur'ans both antique and new,
but were only slightly tempted to buy.
Then we headed into the vast covered market of the Grand Bazaar. And there we were not
at all tempted to buy a carpet or a bath towel, breaking many sellers hearts.
The arcaded aisles create virtual streets that are named and have addresses. The most fun was looking
 for the address of the kebab stand recommended on the Istanbul Eats app.
And we did after many turns, providing us with a fantastic lunch.
 The streets in the market district were the most fun. A shopper's paradise for anything and everything.
I found so many things I could use if I were only home: beautiful polished wooden coat hangers,
a button shop with more buttons than I have ever seen, huge skeins of cording . . . 
At last we reached our destination at the Spice Market where we did not resist buying
some spice blends and teas and honey and nuts from a nice young man who had lived in England
for many years, but returned home last year to help his father in the family shop her in the Spice Market.
 I'm thinking I might have to go back for a bit more of his merchandise before we leave Istanbul. 

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