On the third day

The busiest day yet. First we learned to use the excellent tram system which kept us out of the awful weekend traffic, and brought us to the Church of St Saviour in Chora (Kariye Camii). Chora once meant the monastery was outside Constantine's city wall, but when Theodosius built his walls in the 5th century, Chora was inside and close to the walls.  The existing church was built and rebuilt in the 11th, 12th, and 14th centuries.

The narthex and the exonarthex are decorated with mosaics  that date to 1315 to 1321.  Christ Pantocrator in the lunette in the exonarthex over the door into the narthex.

The narthex has a lovely cycle of mosaics relating the life of Mary using stories popular in the 14th century from the Apocryphal Gospel of St. James. Here Mary is cuddled by her devoted parents Joachim and Anne.

A female donor in some way related to the Comnenus dynasty, emperors of Byzantium in its final centuries.  I think she is lovely and reminds me of Gustav Klimt's paintings of women as symbols. We learned last summer on our Klimt tour that his work was influenced by a trip he took to Ravenna to see the Byzantine mosaics.

The naos has lost nearly all its decoration. This part of the church was built in the 11th century
and promptly partially collapsed. The corner piers were added in the 12th century
when the church was rebuilt.

The parecclesion was added as a funeral and tomb chapel and is decorated with
frescoes of death and destruction and of resurrection. 

Nearby the Chora Church is the Edirne Gate in the 5th century walls. On  the 29th of May 1453,
Mehmet II entered  through this gate, ending the 1000 year Byzantine rule of Constantinople.

Mehmet the Conqueror succeeded in capturing the city after  nearly 800 years
of  trying to establish an Islamic capital in Constantinople.

The new era brought new buildings. The Mihrimah Sultan Camii  was built in the 1560s
 for Princess Mihrimah, daughter of Süleyman the Magnificent, by Sinan the greatest mosque builder.The mosque sits at the top of the 6th of Istanbul's Seven Hills. (Every legendary city has to have seven hills.)

The huge interior is flooded with light through the huge windows penetrating every side.

I love the decorative use of colourful stone.

We followed the remains of the wall down to the Golden Horn. 

An ordinary residential neighbourhood where a sunny Saturday afternoon meant
sitting on front stoops watching children play

A sign outside the mosque said it had been damaged in the 1999 earthquake so
 we assumed some of the homes were also shattered then.

Some had access to interesting building materials for a unique wall. 

Gardens flourished

And a tombstone shone bright with gold lettering.

And the view across the Golden Horn was stunning. We walked down to the ferry landing for a boat ride
back to the Galata Bridge and back to our hotel.