The North: Thursday

16 September 2010

We spent much too much time in the car today, but the best crosses are not conveniently located, and the scenery was spectacular. Having seen Bewcastle on Wednesday, we heeded Pevsner's rating of the best European art of the 7th century and headed off to Ruthwell in Scotland. The Scottish border is sharply oblique, and not far from Hadrian's Wall in the west of Cumbria. We crossed the border at the famous illicit marriage town of Gretna Green — with a billboard hoarding advertising a marriage chapel at the side of the road.

Ruthwell's Cross is inside the church in a purpose-built extension with the base set below floor level so visitors can see the best carvings at eye level.

The Archer beneath the restored crosspiece

Christ Glorified standing on beasts

Mary Magdalen washing Christ's feet

Healing the man born blind

Birds and Vines as at Bewcastle

Runes carved into the border of each side are the words of an
Anglo-Saxon poem The Dream of the Rood possibly by Caedmon.
The runes were probably carved 200 years after the Cross was made.

The Visitation

Ruthwell is dated early 8th century, slightly later than Bewcastle, and the carvings include more figurative work illustrating specific Christian symbols and Biblical parables. The figurative panels include identification inscriptions in Latin.

We then crossed back into Cumbria and drove south through the gorgeous Lake District to see the Gosforth Cross.

On the way we stopped in Torpenhow, one of the 1000 Best Churches which offered these wonderful carved capitals facing each other across the chancel arch.

The Good enjoying Heaven

The Evil suffering Hell 

Gosforth's Cross is dated c.940 when northern England was ruled by the Vikings, so Gosforth is  a Norse Cross with carvings that reflect Scandinavian culture including the traditional gods.

The Gosforth Cross is round at the bottom like a tree trunk
 and squared off at the top

Longinus piercing Christ's side at the Crucifixion

Odin on his steed Sleipnir

A Dragon

Gosforth Church was a treasure trove of carving reflecting the unique mix of Saxon and Viking culture in coastal Cumbria where the Vikings were not plunderers, but settlers in this later period of migration from Scandinavia. The Saxon church was refitted by the Norsemen who converted to Christianity. Next the Normans rebuilt the church in the 12th century. Finally, a Victorian rehab turned up treasures rubbished by earlier generations.

These are Hogbacks, probably tombs, from the same period as the Cross or,
 Pevsner thinks, a bit later. They were found during the church renovation in 1896
used in the foundation of the 12th century rebuilding of the church.

 The Saint's Tomb

The Fishing Stone illustrating the Christianisation of a Norse myth.
Above is a hart, a Christian symbol of conversion and baptism.
In the centre is the serpent representing evil for pagans and Christians.
In the boat is Thor trying, but failing, to kill Midgardsorm, the World Serpent.
Christ 1 - Thor 0