A Rough Diamond in Greenwich

If there was any day that we were sorely tempted to just stay home and nurse blisters (that would be my sore blisters) today would have been the day. Can we talk about elderly feet? How can perfectly comfortable trainers, worn for years suddenly be the cause of blisters? How can comfortable shoes from last year or last month, suddenly not fit very well? Why do shoes that caused blisters and weren't very comfortable last month or last year, now feel like dreams? Is it all those bones in the feet resettling themselves on a daily, weekly, monthly basis causing the mayhem?

Sorely tempted, but not stayed. Today was a trip to Greenwich, but to the other side of Greenwich, the Blackheath side where we had never been. We climbed the giant Greenwich hill (puff puff, pant, pant) through winding streets of lovely old homes to the Point, a not very originally named high point with views across London.

Our destination was English Heritage's Ranger's House, an oversized Georgian house, where the Wernher Collection of art had been installed several years ago.

The collection was said to be mostly Renaissance with a bit of Dutch painting, two of our favourites. As it turned out not much to our taste. Lots of stuff, but there are just so many ivory carvings from the 15th century that can engage my interest -- I think my limit is two, Julius Wernher went way past my limit. He did have a  de Hooch and a  Metsu and an "attributed to Dou" that looked very Dou-ish, in the Dutch painting room, so I will give him credit for those. Over all, too much money, too little taste.

We did choose an appropriate week to visit Sir Julius Wernher's collection. Much of the news here this week has revolved around Naomi Campbell and the Blood Diamonds. From the exhibit, we learned that Julius Wernher was one of the original bloody diamond men. German-born, he came to London to work in finance. He impressed the boss and was sent off to South Africa to establish England's exploitation of diamond mining. He and his partners founded De Beers and made their fortunes. That wasn't quite enough so he then invested in South African gold mining. He and his partners were for a time the richest men in the world. Wernher died in 1912. By the 1990s, the family had fallen on hard times, the art collection was kept together and installed in a random house in Blackheath that was refurbished with rooms designed to match the Wernher's home in central London at the turn of the 19th century. I have to say I find that all a bit strange.

Never mind, it was still a perfect day with sun and blue skies, and we were on the quiet side of Greenwich where the locals enjoy the rose garden at the Ranger's House.
Or play cricket in Greenwich park.

Eventually you walk over the crest of the hill and the rest of the world is there visiting the Greenwich Meridian, Longitude 0º 00' 00".

We stopped in at Greenwich Market for delicious felafel and hummus sandwiches, and a look around at the interesting merchandise, most of it handmade by local stallholders.

Finally we stopped at Hawksmoor's St Alfege Church so Bob could pay homage to the former organist Thomas Tallis.

Thomas Tallis's Organ